Sunday 5 May 2013

The Monastery and the Institute

I think (because I have parents and a grandmother, and maybe even a sister who might care about that sort of thing) I should start this blog post by showing my cozy room at Rumtek. 


(I have now schlepped that guitar to Japan, El Salvador, Spain, and India, as well as quite a number of states. At this point I think it would be weird to go through airport security without it)

Rumtek Monastery used to have its own guest houses / hotel, but last September Sikkim experienced a major earthquake. The damage to the monastery itself, as well as the institute, was fixable (though the scars are still visible on many of the structures), but the guest houses had to be torn down. Because of that, the Institute is putting me up in a privately owned guest house on monastery owned ground, a stone's throw (had I a better arm) from the front gate of the main building of the monastery. The guest house is also used by visiting monks, two of whom were staying here when I first arrived. 

The monastery proper is made up of a two story building, housing the sleeping quarters, dining room, and classrooms for the monks of the monastery. This building surrounds a central courtyard, which contains the prayer hall. 


(This is the courtyard and prayer hall, taken from atop the surrounding building)

Pictures are, according to the signs outside, strictly forbidden inside the prayer hall itself... but I was told (on separate occasions) by both a lay-employee and a monk/teacher of the Institue that if I really wanted pictures from inside they would go with me and we could chance it. So that might happen. I hope it does, because the inside of the is beautiful, all of the surfaces intricately painted with brightly colored religious scenes and figures.

The courtyard is used for religious purposes, but like most other spaces around here (including the prayer hall of the Institue, which I've been told I will be using as a teaching space) it is multi-purpose. In the picture below you can see piles of rice drying in the sun, prior to being polished.


(I wouldn't trust those birds...)


(The administration offices of the monastery, and back of the main entrance, from the courtyard)

I keep mentioning "the Institute" and "the monastery," and I am sure that that is becoming a little confusing. So allow me to explain. Within the larger complex known as Rumtek Monastery (because it is a monastery in the town of Rumtek), there exist two two separate institutions, each with their own monks and prayer services and dining halls, both established by the 16th Karmapa.

One of the institutions is the monastery, which handles the education of monks from late childhood to late adolescence, as well as handling most of the religious needs of the lay-community (prayers for the sick, funerals, etc.). The other institution is the Karmae Shri Nalanda Institute, which handles monk education up to what could be called a masters level. They collaborate on some larger prayers and ceremonies, including a week long prayer which is coming up soon, but for the most part conduct themselves independently from each other. 


The large yellow building, and the larger multicolored building behind it, contain the Institute. As you can see, it is right next to the monastery. Tourists and pilgrims visit both, and probably many of them are unaware of the distinction. 

Some of the holiest relics and statues at Rumtek are housed in the "Golden Stupa," a room inside the yellow building of the Institute, right next to the administration offices, and so during the main part of the day there is a steady (but not overwhelming, given the relatively remote location of Rumtek) stream of tourists in and around both buildings.

While I am here I am studying, observing, and teaching within the Institute, though I have been encouraged to spend time in the monastery (especially the prayer hall) when I get the opportunity. 


(The approach to the Institue)


(The monastery, as seen from the administration offices)


(A statue of a lion, 4 of which grace the corners of the prayer hall of the monastery)

Let me know if there is anything you think I should clarify or explain, or any specific things you want photographed. I already have a good deal more to post (you haven't even seen any people yet!), but I'd love to know what you are interested in. 

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